Powertap G3 hub review

Powertap G3 review

Training using power was something I’d read a lot about but hadn’t taken the opportunity to try until I bought the Tacx Neo with its built in power metre function. What a revelation! No more going too hard on the easy days and too easy on the hard days. Power is one of those metrics that’s always in your face telling you exactly what to do and how hard to do (or not do) it.

As someone new to the Power metre market I was after something relatively cheap and user friendly. Initially my thoughts were with the P1 pedals as I liked the idea of seeing the left / right leg bias data. The Garmin Vectors look fantastic but sadly were out of my price range and I didn’t like the idea of the calibration pods too much.

The Powertap hub seems like the grandfather of the power metre market and I’d initially dismissed it over the newer more glitzy pedal and crank versions, but the more I looked at it, the more I liked the look and idea of a hub based unit. I didn’t really need the left / right bias and my version of the Garmin Edge head unit wouldn’t display foot inclination and powerstroke like the newer units can, but a firmware update meant I could enter my FTP, So I’d have a reasonably accurate number to aim at.

The eG3 hub is a pretty sleek unit compared to the older Powertap Hubs and I like the look of it. Not too bulky and quite stealth like. You couldn’t mistake it for an ordinary hub, but it doesn’t shout ‘power!’ in your face like the old models did. The matt black finish with grey and orange detailing really help in the aesthetics department. Weight was a concern initially, but the G3 comes in at 325g, that’s 11g lighter than a Shimano Ultegra 6800 hub which weighs in at 336g. I laced the hub onto a Stans Alpha 340 (great rims – can’t wait to try the Grails…) using black DT Swiss Aerocomp spokes in a 2 cross lace pattern. Not the lightest of builds using 14mm nipples, but I wanted a robust wheel that looked good and could be swapped onto the winter bike.

My niggle is that I have two rim brake bikes and two disc brake bikes. I’d have to get a disc version of the hub for the disc bikes obviously. I guess this is where a single crank unit like the Stages would win – as long as you are running the same crankset of course.

So far it's survived a dousing in some pretty horrible conditions which have tested the G3’s waterproofing and the freehub has a satisfying click, not to loud, not to quiet. The Battery seems easy to replace (with the correct tool) and is an easily found CR2032 watch type which you can easily get hold of. The Ant+ capability will give you speed and cadence, although the algorithm for cadence isn't supposed to be as good as a crank based sensor so I've stuck with my Garmin cadence sensor just in case. A ‘Bluetooth smart’ version of the hub is available and you can swap the hub caps out for either Ant+ or Bluetooth smart but you’d be bummed if you ordered the wrong unit and had to buy another hub cap. It won't give you left and right bias obviously but comparing it to my friends Rotor cranks the power readings pretty bob on.

I've got mine paired to my Garmin Edge 500 (zero hassle pairing) The only thing the Garmin gets a little confused with is when I swap between the Tacx Neos in built power metre and the G3, but even then it's just a question of searching it out - a 10 second job. If you want more data analysis you can pair it to Powertaps 'Joule' head unit that gives almost SRM levels of detail.

Overall a worthwhile purchase and a relatively low cost way into the power metre market.

Basics of successful Cycle Fitting Part 1. Experience

‘FIT’ seems to be a golden word in road cycling at the moment, and a bit like wheel building, carries its own level of mystique. It seems a lot of people are unsure of the workings of the human body, whereas these same people may be amongst some of the best bicycle mechanics you could wish to meet.

As ‘FIT’ is a symphony of the body and bicycle working in unison then it is very important to be fully aware of how the human body was designed to work and how we can adapt the bicycle to suit its needs. To put this into perspective you could be a great mechanic but without the knowledge of the human body, those great adjustments are worthless. Worse still you could end up damaging the most important part of all, the ‘nut that holds the bars’.

Some people will view ‘FIT’ as a one time ‘fixer of all ills’. This view is way wide of the mark. The sport’s top professionals will be fitted as often as things change such as new sponsor, new bike, new FIT, crash, rehab. You don’t need to be a sponsored athlete to appreciate that as the body ages it becomes less flexible and injuries can be picked up necessitating the need for a new FIT to cater for this. ‘FIT’ is changing as much as the rider is.

Some people will think that after the FIT has been done they will be able to climb like lontador, descend like cancallara and that all of the niggling aches and pains that that they had will ‘magically disappear’. 

Well we are not wizards! The idea of a FIT is to allow someone to cycle correctly supported for their needs, yes, but any change that is made will take a time for the body to become accustomed to, even if it is for the better.

Muscles take time to grow, tendons time to stretch. You will not accommodate a new position immediately; it will take time to get the body used to the new position. Following my guidelines will assist the process and any niggles will be minor and should have completely disappeared by the 4^th or 5^th ride (if this is not the case then the ‘FIT’ will need to be re-checked).

If a rider is looking to emulate the position of a professional with a ‘slammed’ stem they may be disappointed. Their body may not be able to tolerate this position, at least not for very long.

So how do we get started? What equipment and documentation do we need? How much experience does it take? How long should we allow? Where should I be conducting this process? So many questions! Let’s get some answers.

For this Blog post (Part 1) I'd like to begin with how much experience it takes. No real easy way to approach this, because you will need to understand a heck of a lot, but everyone must start somewhere.

Experience Matters

If this is the first thing you have read about ‘FIT’ then good. It’s a good place to start, but you’re research must advance beyond these words. I will list some books that are good for you to read, but make the time to back up your reading with qualified physiotherapists. You are a bike mechanic/rider first and foremost, even after months of reading there will still be things that throw curveballs. Something’s cannot be fixed without professional help. These people are you lifelines. Make friends with them.

Get a physical assessment (alignment check) done. A good Pilates class should offer an initial body assessment as should a sports injury clinic. Get one (preferably two) done and learn from them. Pick out similarities; compare them to what you have read. If more than one person is saying the same thing then it helps you gain a clear direction. Understanding your own body will assist you in understanding others.

Get full cycles FIT’s done from experienced outlets. Again, get more than one done. Again look for similarities in the way the FIT is conducted and note these down.

It is preferable to follow this order:-

1.      Formulate – Practice – Record.

2.      Read –Digest.

3.      Physical Assessment (non cycle).

4.      Full FIT (cycle).

5.      FIT classes.

6.      Read –Make notes –Digest.

Got the money? Go for a class. There’s more than one provider offering them, but at present there seems to be no standardisation, so again, go on more than one and seek similarities. I hope that what you learn will bring you full circle to my guidelines that you read here.

      I would recommend that it is wise to do your first few FIT’s on people who you know well. This will overcome any embarrassment you may have when laying hands on people and let you develop a professional manor in these situations.

            I would offer your first few sessions free of charge. The feedback and experience you will gain will be priceless and allow you to be sure you are proceeding in the right direction. Using my guidelines (plus anything else you have learnt) will allow you to keep a consistent record of every rider FIT you do and these are good comparative records, although as mentioned before, no two riders are the same!

For Part 2 of the Basics of successful Cycle Fitting I will be taking you through the Fit Environment, How long it may take you and what Equipment and Documentation you will require.